Aug

Impressions of the DRC Congo

The DRC Congo has a tragic history. The Congo River was first navigated by Stanley between 1874-1877; the American reporter renowned for discovering the missing Dr. Livingstone with the celebrated words, “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?” Stanley went on to sell his skills to King Leopold of Belgium who ruthlessly devoured and stripped the country of its rubber and people. The Congo was the only African country to be controlled by a single monarch. When word of his cruelty eventually leaked out he was forced to turn his control of the Congo over to the Belgium people. The Belgium’s held onto the Congo until 1960 when the Congolese were given their independence. At that point their history becomes a bloody mess of rebellions, assassinations, and brutal tribal warfare. Most of their infrastructure crumbles and the mighty Congo River transportation system comes to a halt. What is especially sad about the DRC is that world economists believe it to be the wealthiest country in the world with a plethora of navigable rivers, the 2^ndlargest rain forest, and more minerals than any country in the world. It has the potential to easily match and surpass the United States. Currently it ranks last in the world. Following are a few impressions and memories of our short three week stay in Kinshasa.

The Congo River in Kinshasa.

Flying into the original colonial airport. Within the airport we were met with a sense of organized chaos, standing in long lines to have our documents checked and then waiting for two hours for our luggage to appear even though the Ethiopian Airlines jet was literally a few feet from the door.
Listening to the passengers speak French and appreciating the West African clothes, hairdos, and personalities of the passengers as they waited patiently for their bags.
Being transported from the airport in an American Embassy bullet proof, air conditioned navy blue Suburban. Watching the commerce on the bumpy dirt road…seeing a country in transition…new buildings, tiny shops selling cheap Chinese merchandise, blue and yellow beaten up taxi vans, so many people on the roads, the dust, and the commerce…always the African commerce.
Meeting our grandchildren for the first time at the American ambassador’s house. Seeing little Peo in the distance with his red hair reflected by the sun.
Boating on the Congo River. I never dreamed it was so large. I’ve been on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers, but this is so much larger… in some areas over 18 kms…there is just no comparison.
Seeing the rusty river boats and passenger ferries stacked against the shore that once plied up and down the Congo River carrying passengers into the interior of the country.
The inconsistencies of the country…will I ever get over the incongruity of Africa? Immaculate South African fast food shops serving fried chicken, soft serve ice-cream and hamburgers. But across the street there was poverty, dusty shacks, grass roofs, mud walls.
Clean grocery stores filled with South African products that only the very rich could afford. The door is guarded by policemen holding sub-machine guns.
Watching taxi drivers hand out bribes to the police like we hand out money to the toll booth collectors in the states. The police didn’t bother our car because we had diplomatic plates.
Seeing a dead body tangled amongst the floating purple hyacinths, floating face down in the Congo River in front of a newly built resort. The police reaction…”We took a picture. What would we do with it if we took it out?”
Standing on the top of the USAID building and looking at the city below. In one direction was the Congo River with its active port. All along the river lay tropical rain forest logs waiting to be transported down river. In the other direction was the once busy functioning railroad that carried people and produce throughout this vast nation. The station was still there along with the rusted passenger car relics still waiting on the defunct tracks as if hoping to once again carry passengers into the interior of this vast country.
The old train station
New construction in every direction.
A well built eight lane highway with functioning traffic lights running parallel to the river, connecting the heart of Kinshasa.
A red bricked Catholic Church and school compound built in 1912. Entering the church one day we were surprised to hear a classical aria being sung by a lovely Congolese soprano.
A bustling city market full of attractive pineapples, papaya, bananas, egg plant, zucchini, cucumbers, salad, greens, cassava, eggs, and so much more. The food was so inviting and the fruit so delicious.
The sellers knew Simone by name. Watching her chat with each lady, always smiling, soft spoken and so very kind. I was so proud to be by her side.
Walking through the government teaching hospital and meeting some of the government physicians and professors. They are trying so hard to educate their people amidst enormous odds.
The gray skies. Every day we woke up to gray skies. The Congo River hugs the equator, so to the north it is rainy season and to the south, where we were, was dry season. Unfortunately we were so close to the river that the weather didn’t seem to know if it was dry season or rainy season so it always felt like it should rain but it never did.
The police and military presence. Our maid was going home by taxi van when they were stopped and robbed at gunpoint by army soldiers.
But, amid all the bad things we saw so much good. We loved being with our grandchildren and our son Josh and his wife Simone, our daughter Anna-Maria , sharing two birthdays with Elisabeth and Johanna, worshiping with the international church, viewing the country and getting to meet the lovely Congolese people.
On top of the USAID building in Kinshasa

Johanna unwrapping her rag doll

Anna-Maria with Elisabeth, Johanna and Clara

With Peo and Elisabeth just before leaving the DRC